Fermenting

Plastic fermenters (like the FermZilla or standard buckets) are affordable, lightweight, and often transparent, which is great for watching the fermentation process. Stainless steel fermenters (like the Ss Brewtech or Grainfather ranges) are more durable, easier to sanitise without scratching, and offer better long-term temperature conductivity. While stainless is an investment, it is considered "lifetime" gear for serious brewers.

Pressure fermentation involves sealing the vessel so CO2 builds up inside. This suppresses ester production (allowing you to ferment cleaner beer at higher temperatures) and carbonates the beer as it ferments. You must use a pressure-rated vessel like a FermZilla or a Fermenter King to do this safely. It is a game-changer for NZ brewers looking to make crisp lagers in less time.

Yeast is very sensitive to heat. If fermentation gets too warm, it can produce "off-flavours" like fusel alcohols (harsh boozy notes) or excessive fruitiness. Using a Heating Pad, Inkbird Temperature Controller, or a Glycol Chiller ensures your yeast stays in its "happy zone," resulting in professional-quality beer every time.

An airlock that isn't bubbling doesn't always mean fermentation has failed. It often means the lid on your fermenter doesn't have a 100% airtight seal, allowing CO2 to escape elsewhere. The only way to know for sure if your beer is fermenting is to take a reading with your hydrometer.

You generally need a 30L fermenter for a standard 23L batch. This extra "headspace" is required because fermentation creates a thick foam called krausen. If the fermenter is too small, the foam will push up through the airlock, causing a messy "blowout."

First, use a cleaner like PBW (Five Star) or Craft San to remove organic residue. Once clean, use a no-rinse sanitiser like StellarSan immediately before use. Remember: you cannot sanitise a surface that is not clean, and anything that touches your beer after the boil must be sanitised.